Posts Tagged ‘Hunting Knives’
Taking Care of Your Buck Knife
BUCK KNIVES ARE DESIGNED FOR CUTTING
Please don’t throw, pound, pry or chop with a Buck knife. It’s not safe and if you damage the knife using it that way, it may void the warranty. Strong impact or twisting can also damage your knife or worse, cause an injury. If you have a lockback blade, always check that the locking mechanism is in working order before you use it.
A SHARP KNIFE IS SAFER THAN A DULL ONE
Buck knives are built to last. Take good care of your Buck and it will serve you well.
Keep your knife dry; that means the entire knife, not just the blade.
Keep your knife clean, particularly moving parts and locking device.
Keep your knife oiled; especially pivot points and the blade.
Keep your knife sharp; a sharp blade is safer than a dull one.
Don’t try to repair a damaged knife yourself. Send it to Buck and they’ll do their best to make it good as new.
KNIFE CARE INSTRUCTIONS
Store your knife in a dry place, out of the sheath. Lightly wipe the blade with clean oil two to three times a year to keep rust from starting. You may need to oil more often if you live near water.
At Buck, they use stainless steel for the blade. They use other components that minimize the weathering effects of liquids and oxidation, because they want your knife to last. Cleaning and caring for your knife will maintain performance and enhance the life your knife.
CLEAN THE ENTIRE KNIFE REGULARLY
That includes the blade, pivot points and locking mechanism. It’s best not to immerse the knife in liquid. But if you do, be sure to dry your knife thoroughly. Spray cleaners are a good alternative. Clean and oil your knife regularly to avoid sticky residues, light surface oxidation and the beginnings of rust.
DISCOLORATION IS A SIGN OF OXIDATION
If you find the metal has a blue, grey or black color, it is a sign of oxidation and a precursor of rust.
Stainless steel, which is what Buck uses, does not discolor easily. If you do notice a change in the color of the metal, clean it immediately. It’s a sign of rust waiting to happen.
Discoloration is common to non-stainless steel. But regular cleaning will keep the metal from rusting.
NIP RUST IN THE BUTT
Rust is reddish-brown in color and will eat pits into your blade and contaminate what you cut. Light rust can be cleaned and removed with oil. Heavier rust requires more abrasive action.
Remember: Proper knife care is important to maintain the quality of your knife.
The Straight Stuff
Hunting knives are made in two basic configurations- fixed-blade and folding. The forte of the fixed-blade or sheath knife design (because it needs a sheath or outer cover to prevent accidental injury) is manifest in its inherent strength and easy access. No folding knife can ever equal the structural integrity of a fixed-blade.
They come in all sizes, but its most important to find one that fits you. You should know specifically what kind of materials went into the manufacture of the knife. Buzz words like “surgical” steel (surgical instruments are generally made out of the cheapest stainless steel possible), “high-carbon” steel, or “rust-free” steel are generally meaningless. What you want to know is the type (carbon or stainless) and number indicator (440A, 440C,154CM, ATS-34 etc.) of steel. Then you can know the composition of the steel formulation.
Don’t just consider the blade. Knife handle shape is another plus for the fixed-blade design. No matter how a folding knife handle is designed, there is always going to be a certain amount of angularity present. A fixed-blade knife handle configured in the preferred oval shape easily fits the grip-pocket of the hand.
What will you pay for a fixed-blade hunting knife? The sky’s the limit. I would suggest a quality factory fixed-blade can be purchased for less than $100. It won’t be fancy but it will offer quality materials and craftsmanship.